Effects of major storms over a spit-tidal flat interaction system (Punta Rasa-Samborombón, Argentina)

Abstract

Sandy coastal areas are very dynamic systems in which morphological changes occur over different time scales from hours to decades. However, it has been widely reported that major storms are the main responsible of the most significant changes in short to medium time scales. Major storms have been defined using a variety of environmental variables, but they are normally associated with high values of wave height, duration, return period and direction. Here, we aim to characterize types of major storms and to categorize associated morphological impacts over a complex coastal system. The study site, known as Punta Rasa, is located in the Samborombón bay in the outer part of the Río de La Plata estuary (Argentina) and corresponds to a zone of interaction between a large sandy spit and a backwash tidal flat system. Methods combine statistics of wave climate time-series, analysis of wave energy using nearshore numerical modelling (SWAN) and comparison of pre- and post-storm morphological changes by means of shoreline change detection and satellite images derived indexes (CoastSat Toolkit and NDWI index respectively). Results allowed to characterize four types of major storms impacting the study area: High-Energy Storms (HES), defined by an average storm wave below the 1 % exceedance (>2.6 m), Long-Lived Storms (LLS) represented by an exceedance of the 1 % of Du (>60 h), Storm Groups (SG) in which storm return period is <6 days and Northeastern moderate storms (NMS) defined by their eastern, onshore oriented direction. Under HES and NMS storms erosional areas are dominant over depositional, causing shoreline retreat, a growth of the end-spit and the increase on sand deposition on the back-barrier areas. Under LLS and SG storms, the morphological impact varies alongshore, with multiple erosional hotspots found along the shoreline accompanied by a general flattens of the end-spit system.