La moda, Jano en movimiento: novedad y muerte en la aceleración del tiempo moderno

Abstract

Esta reflexión sobre el fenómeno y el concepto moda apunta a la articulación entre la novedad y lo caduco como fuga y clave para comprender la existencia de lo humano y lo no humano en la sociedad de aceleración capitalista. La problemática se desarrolla a partir de la opereta de Leopardi, Diálogo de la moda y de la muerte. La novedad y la muerte pertenecen, en efecto, a la gramática misma de la moda, que la figura ilustrada del progreso enhebra en la transitoriedad como forma misma de su tejido histórico. El Diálogo de Leopardi tiene su continuidad, tanto en la literatura de Rilke, como en las posturas de Baudelaire, Tarde, Simmel y Benjamin. El pasaje de la materialización de la moda a su morfología se revela como fuga acelerada del tiempo, que se manifiesta en lo efímero del fetichismo mercantil capitalista. La moda logra transformar en costumbre la aceleración, aun a costa de la vida misma, empujando la existencia a un destino infernal.

Through the concept and the phenomenon of fashion, this article is aimed at focusing on the articulation between novelty and the outdated as a sequence that is key to understanding the existence of the human and the non-human in the society of capitalist acceleration. The problematic is developed on the basis of Leopardi's operetta, Dialogue of Fashion and Death. Novelty and death belong to the grammar of fashion, which the enlightened fgure of progress threads into transience as the very form of its historical production.Leopardi’s Dialogue has its continuity both in the literature of Rilke and in the positions of Baudelaire, Tarde, Simmel and Benjamin. The passage from the materialization of fashion to its morphology reveals itself as the accelerated fight of time, which manifests itself in the ephemerality of capitalist mercantile fetishism. Fashion succeeds in transforming acceleration into habit, even at the cost of life itself, pushing existence into an infernal destiny. proposal. This rereading, that takes place in the second decade of the 21st century, when many paths around the theme raised by both poems placed in parallel have already been traveled, implies a challenge and a daring, a challenge accepted by me in order to try to understand their refections and bring the readers of "today" an exquisite poetic material.