Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443)

Abstract

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection “in vitro” is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.